Marvelous Mekong River Cruise: Phnom Penh
In this fourth of a multi-part series, Bethany explores Phnom Penh, Cambodia as part of her Fascinating Vietnam, Cambodia & the Mekong River cruise.
In February of 2020 I had the pleasure of sailing on my fourth Avalon Waterways river cruise. The Fascinating Vietnam, Cambodia & the Mekong River was my first river cruise outside of Europe. This time my adventures took me to Cambodia and Vietnam on the Mekong River. Of the five Avalon river cruises I have done (so far!), this is my favorite. Because there are so many wonderful stops along the way, this series is broken up into several parts. This fourth post highlights the last stop in Cambodia, the bustling city of Phnom Penh.
An Overview of the Journey So Far
My first few days in Cambodia were fantastic. The city of Phnom Penh is where the Tonle Sap River and the Mekong River converge, so it served as a central location for us in Cambodia. After the first few days in Siem Reap we flew into Phnom Penh to board the ship. Once we were onboard, the ship sailed north on the Mekong to visit Angkor Ban and Okhna Tei (Wat Hancheay). We then sailed back through Phnom Penh to head north on the Tonle Sap to visit Kampong Tralach and Konpong Louang. We sailed back to Phnom Penh one last time to actually spend time there exploring the historic city.
For more details about my earlier time in Cambodia, click the buttons below:
As a disclaimer, the first two stops listed below include some potentially disturbing descriptions and photos as they are related to the brutal Khmer Rouge regime. Even though both were difficult to visit, they are important testaments to history. I am glad to have had the opportunity to see both places and to learn more about the horrific atrocities that occurred. If you would prefer to skip these sections (Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and The Killing Fields), please scroll down to the Cyclo Tour of the City section.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison) – disturbing content
Our first stop in Phnom Penh was to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as the S-21 Prison. This is a sobering look into the atrocities inflicted upon the Cambodian people during the Khmer Rouge regime. The S-21 Prison was a former high school that was converted to a prison where thousands were held and brutally tortured before being sent to the Killing Fields. Here we had a brief introduction by our local guide, Chantha, and then we had time on our own to explore the museum further. It was striking to see how beautiful the grounds are now, which is in stark contrast to the rows and rows of cells (converted classrooms).
We also had the opportunity to meet one of only two survivors who is still alive. There were a total of 7 survivors who made it out of the prison. The gentleman we met told us stories (translated by our guide Chantha) of some of his experiences in the prison and the work he has done since to raise and maintain awareness of the events.
The below slideshow includes a few pictures with more details about the history of the prison, as well as some photos of the cells and the torture devices. There is nothing overtly graphic in any of the pictures, but the descriptions and the images may be disturbing to some.
The Killing Fields (Choeung Ek Genocidal Center) – disturbing content
After vising the site of the prison we then drove out to the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, commonly referred to as the Killing Fields. This is one of the sites within Cambodia where dozens of large mass graves were discovered. They initially started to dig up the gravesites but eventually stopped and decided to let people lie in peace where they were buried. You can still see scraps of clothing and other personal effects all around the grounds.
Also on this site is a tree which had loudspeakers attached to it – very loud music was played from these speakers so it could drown out the sounds of the killing going on. There is also a beautiful monument in the center, and within this monument is a sobering display of many skulls and other bones found on the site.
Visitors also leave brightly colored ribbons or bracelets at the area where the bodies of many children were found. As we passed this area, I paused and added the small piece of rainbow-colored ribbon I brought with me for this purpose.
The below slideshow includes photos of the site. There are a few photos of the interior of the monument with skulls and bones, and the images and descriptions may be disturbing to some.
Okay, the sobering parts of my time in Phnom Penh are finished…onto much lighter subject matters! After that very difficult afternoon at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields, we quietly returned to the ship. The ride back to the ship was quiet as everyone was processing what we saw and heard that afternoon. But another wonderful dinner was waiting for us that evening. We relaxed, reflected, and prepared for another very full day ahead.
Cyclo Tour of the City
Today’s adventures kicked off with yet another unique local transportation option…a cyclo! The passenger sits in the front seat, which has a retractable cover to use when the sun gets too hot. The driver expertly pedals the bicycle from behind. We took a cyclo tour through the city of Phnom Penh and saw some beautiful sights. Luckily this tour was early in the morning, before the true heat of the day kicked in. It was still a warm and steamy morning around the city, though.
Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
The first stop on our cyclo tour of Phnom Penh was the gorgeous Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. No pictures are allowed in the Silver Pagoda but it is fabulous! The floors are made of silver and there is a very large Buddha statue made of emerald, among many other prized treasures on display. But I was able to take a lot of pictures in and around the Royal Palace, so please enjoy those below.
National Museum of Cambodia
The last stop on our cyclo tour was the National Museum. This museum features an outstanding display of Khmer artifacts housed in a beautiful building. Here we had a guided tour of the facility as well as some free time to further explore areas that caught our fancy.
Kingdom Brewery Tour
After the morning cyclo tour of the city we once again returned to the ship for a delicious and relaxing lunch. I chose to participate in an optional excursion that afternoon, a tour and tasting at Kingdom Brewery. Those who did not choose this excursion had free time to either rest on the ship or explore the city on their own.
The few of us who did the excursion loaded up into tuk-tuks for a short ride to the Kingdom Brewery. The tasting included four brews: hard cider, Pilsner, mango IPA, and a regular IPA. All were tasty, but I liked the Pilsner and the mango IPA the best! After the tasting we got a tour of the brewery and learned a bit about its history and brewing processes. It was a delicious and refreshing way to spend the afternoon.
Performance on the Ship
Before dinner this evening, we were treated to a special performance onboard. Children from a local orphanage performed local song and dance for us. It was a mix of traditional Cambodian dances (the beautiful Apsara dances like we saw in Siem Reap) and some newer, more modern performances. The kids were so talented and put on a great show!
Conclusion
These two days in Phnom Penh were our last in Cambodia. After dinner on the last evening we bid a very fond farewell to our local guide, Chantha. He is an amazing guide and taught us all so much about his home country. It was amazing to visit smaller villages and get to interact with local people. Our last stop here in Phnom Penh was the largest city we had visited so far on the cruise, so it was interesting to see a more bustling city as compared to the smaller villages. We were welcomed with warm smiles everywhere we went within Cambodia.
Stay tuned for future posts which will highlight my time in Vietnam.
Links
Click the buttons below for further information on some of the places I explored in Phnom Penh:
Click the button below for further information on the 2023 Avalon Fascinating Vietnam, Cambodia & the Mekong River itinerary:
Click the buttons below for the other posts in this series:
